05 February 2008
japan, design, food, business
These veggies showed up at my local Ito Yokado about a year ago. Each one has a line drawing of the (Japanese) face and name of the farmer responsible for the crop.
I’m not certain there’s a significant difference in quality, but it’s a clever way to calm food source paranoias in a country where American beef with spinal tissue and frozen Chinese dumplings laced with rat poison lead the nightly news.
07 December 2007
food, business
With this entry I will fulfill blog cliche #23, by giving you a bullet-point list of things happening after a long silence:
- AQ is working with Firefox on a short video contest.
- We’re going home for Christmas, first time in five years.
- I fell into a black hole of Kitchen Nightmares watching last month. Theatrics and cursing aside, I really appreeciate Gordon Ramsay’s sober approach to business. The message I take away from most of the episodes is, if you put sentiment and pride aside to see and accept the immutable realities of your business, the resulting discoveries and changes will make running that business more enjoyable and rewarding in the long run.
- This restaurant is doing everything right.
- So is this one.
- TAB is running a Haiku contest.
- Hitotoki is launching in London.
I’ve been eating out a lot these days, so when I cook at home, I try to catch up on the vegetables. But without a lot of time to fuss with complex sauces or multi-step cooking, I’ve been trying to do a lot with a little.
Insipired by Eiko while she’s away.
Recipe on Open Source Food
23 June 2007
food, experience
In product development, lesser manufacturers often frontload their attention onto the pre-purchase experience. Only good manufacturers care what happens once their product enters your home, and only the most conscientious care what happens once their product leaves your home.
The same can be said of restaurants. Lesser chefs dazzle you with fancy names, cheap prices or insane portions, better chefs make sure you enjoy every bite. But I wonder how many chefs consider everything that happens after you swallow?
I’m not talking about poisoning or obesity here, just the couple of hours after the meal. Are there certain cuisines or dishes that put you in the same physical or mental state, good or bad, every time you eat them? Do you modify your choices, or eat whatever tastes good, regardless of the consequences? Do you know any chefs who consider this when creating a menu?
I had dinner with Paul and Craig at the New York Bar and Grill at the top of the Park Hyatt in Tokyo, a planned indulgence, after a rocky start to 2007. I lost all sense of time and place. My first steak in almost a year, and I’d wait another year for the next one if I can have it there again.
AQ is redesigning its website for the first time since it’s founding three years ago. The process has been long, stop-start and improvisational, completely unlike our client projects, which we keep tightly-structured. Our own business cards and brochures went much the same way, and the results are always fine, but the rhythm change is always stressful. Why does our standard process to a basic design problem not fit when we become the client?
I think there are two reasons: First, being the client is tough work. It’s easy to take for granted how much client’s have to do to keep a project moving: gathering and editing content, scheduling photo shoots, building consensus. When we become our own clients, we are effectively doubling the workload we are used to for a website, and often chipping away at this workload off hours.
Secondly, good design projects are conversations between client and designer, who check and balance each other, propelling the project forward in the process. Without another team on the other side to volley back, you have to continually step under the net, adjust your perspective, pick up the ball and hit it back over.
For some there is March Madness, for Paul, it’s the seasonal debut of mobile phones. In terms of pure technical specs, I can understand why he’s more excited this season than last, but I guess I lost my interest too long ago.
While there are always one or two beauties, with the iPhone on its way, it’s become even clearer to me that the Japanese carriers release way too many phones. Their approach seems to be to split up the market into as many demographic segments as they can, and give each their own phone with it’s own brand message, form, color and feature set. This seems like a slightly more evolved variation on the “spray and pray” approach that you see with a lot of less fashionable Japanese consumer electronics, for which they long ago gave up on searching for names that don’t read like serial numbers.
Maybe this makes business sense, but it’s sure is dispiriting if you look for an aesthetic coherency from model to model, season to season.
Photo by Paul.
20 May 2007
japan, design, food
As far as I can tell, it’s generally considered bad manners in Japan to eat, and to a much lesser degree, drink outside.
There are of course several allowances. Anything served at outdoor festivals, quick shots of canned coffee. But outside of these, you just don’t see Japanese people put much to their mouth outside of homes and restaurants.
This makes perfect sense to me. When they can, the Japanese like to take their time with meals. They fuss over presentation, balance and sequence. There is a whole vocabulary for eating that spans past the easy senses of taste and smell, into touch and hearing. How could any of this possibly be enjoyed wedged between meetings on opposite sides of town?
Besides, in many less restrained cultures than Japan, eating is the most flamboyant bodily function that humans can engage in with mixed company. Eating outside imposes all kinds of potential irritations on strangers. Maybe they haven’t eaten yet today, so your soft bite into an onigiri taunts them. Maybe they just ate, so the smell of your everything bagel nauseates them. Or maybe they’re just having a really bad day, and the last thing they need is for you to spray droplets of melted banana java chip Frappucino onto their suit jacket while they hang from the hand straps in a Ginza Line subway car, gently swaying.
But this has been a tough adjustment for me. I survived the last eight or so years of my schooling eating chunks of bagels in the back of math class, food that requires utensils while driving, and entire fast food meals while jogging across campus. In Japan, I struggle to delay gratification until I find a quiet, stationary stage for the performance of a 3-part symphony of mixed sandwiches.
Which is why this ad in Kudanshita station touched me so. A single line of copy and a simple photograph together defy all this nonsense and make it ok again for me to inhale soft serve in front of ampm.
Japanese print ads have always been more interesting to me than I remember American ads, though the reason probably says more about me than it does about the quality of the ads, namely that:
- I don’t watch TV: Many of these ads count on you having seen the TV version, so like an inside joke, they crumble into an innocuous or nonsensical collage of message and image when you haven’t seen it. My failure to recognize all but the most well known Japanese personalities doesn’t help things either.
- They’re not interested in me: Foreigners are simply too small a demographic for most advertisers to be interested in. The products they push and the arguments they use were created to manipulate a whole set of common beliefs, fears, tastes that I often don’t share.
In addition to keeping my discretionary spending on hair gel and trashy weeklies down, this total communication breakdown has made it easier to pass the time on my commute, deciphering and dissecting these ads. But one gaijin can only take it so far, so I’ve decided to share a few cases here, starting with this series from Mos Burger.
The New Mos
This campaign is running on the Tokyo Metro trains to promote new recipes on Mos Burger’s core products, the Mos Burger and the Teriyaki Burger.
The train ads are as simple as you can get: a product shot, 3 lines of copy, product name, and the company logo and tagline, but let’s try to pull this apart (click on the image to follow along):
The Teriyaki Ad (top)
- Introduced in 1973: In a country where some businesses last 1,400 years, longetivity counts a lot. From line 1, MOS wants you to know that this comparative blip of a burger has history, it’s been tested by the public, deemed trustworthy, and it’s still here.
- First in the world: Many westerners and even Japanese people characterize Japanese innovation as more refinement than invention. I’m not sure if a teriyaki burger is going to bust this myth, but it at least shows that being first means something here.
- self-confident work (自信作): Like the world’s best pancakes at countless diners across the U.S., many Japanese restaurants have one item they stand behind more than any other, the one you should try before anything else.
- 新. (new): This little beauty mark on the first character of the title really puzzled me at first, but Eiko explained that that little mark elevates the character from a description to a product name. When you consider the stream of products boasting newness, the distinction makes sense. This is not just a new teriyaki burger, it is the new teriyaki burger.
The Mos Burger ad (bottom)
- The Taste of Japan (日本の味): Later in the ad, Mos takes it a step further, stating “this burger matches the tastes of the modern Japanese person more than any other.” (Note: Apologies for the bad crop). This is one of those messages that shows up all the time, not only in ads, but in conversation: Japanese people have unique tastes, and foreign ideas often need to be reworked in order to meet these tastes, preferably by other Japanese people. To many foreigners, this belief rings with ethnocentrism and elitism, unfortunately justified by the occasional assertion that Japanese tastes are not only different, but more refined and sensitive.
- I’m in the mood for Mos today (今日、モス気分): This slogan seems modeled after the recent string of MacDonalds slogans: the vapid “I’m lovin’ it” in the US and “Got 100 yen? Let’s go to Mac” in Japan. All these slogans have two common qualities that are very 21st century. First, they are written from the point of view of the customer, Time Magazine’s “You”. Secondly, they are all in the moment. They’re about today, the money in your pocket and how you are feeling right now.
Though somewhat at odds with where these MOS ads started, with history, perseverence and reputation, this tagline is perhaps what fast food does best even if it’s for the worst. It places a solution within reach, to answer an urge from within, right now.